My parents left behind their ancestral homes in their village back in Pakistan side of Punjab. Thus I had never experienced village life in real terms, so when I got an invitation to stay at an old Haveli in a Rajasthani village, I accepted it gladly. The best part about the whole thing was that it was only 5 hrs drive from Delhi. The destination was going to be Castle Pachar at village Pachar in the region of Shekhawati in Rajasthan. Shekhawati owes its name to Rao Shekha who ruled this region in the 18th century. The region is known for painted frescoes, often called the ‘Open Art Gallery’ with beautiful hand painting on walls, ceilings and pillars of houses, temples etc.
We started at around 6A.M. in the
morning from Delhi and were soon
cruising at top speed on the smooth as
silk Jaipur highway. In two hours we had
reached Behror, 120 km from Delhi and
stopped at Shiva Oasis for breakfast, a
nice resort on the highway with lot of
green areas, a swimming pool and good
comfy airconditioned rooms, making for a
nice weekend option around Delhi.
Another 3 hours drive through almost
desert like conditions but on good
metalled roads, we were at Pachar,
passing Khachriawas on the way, hometown
of our vice- President Mr. Bhairon Singh
Shekhawat. The initial look at the
Haveli, Castle Pachar was not so
encouraging though the attached green
lawns looked inviting. We were greeted
by Hanumant Singh, the caretaker an ex
Taj Hotel man. Once we entered the
Haveli we were taken aback by the sheer
beauty of Rang Mahal the common sitting
area. The room was decorated in
innumerable shades of different hues in
traditional Rajasthani style. There were
old photographs, jewellery, souvenirs
and so on donning the walls. The haveli
was donated by the Maharaja of Jaipur to
Thakur Ghuman Singh ji around 300 years
ago and has been renovated and thrown
open for tourists.
The place has about 13 rooms on three
floors done in Rajasthani décor with
attached modern toilets complete with
tiled floors, bathtub, English toilet, a
shower and hot & cold water. The rooms
are spacious and comfortable though not
very luxurious. We were starving and
were served a mixture of Rajasthani &
continental lunch in a equally beautiful
restaurant the Sheesh Mahal with
paintings, handcuffs etc. decorating the
walls. The food was Rajasthani and
simple and had a unique flavor to it,
with not too much of spices and oil . We
were told that every ingredient of the
meal was either produced in the Haveli
or procured from the village. The Haveli
has it’s own vegetable garden, wheat,
cows and buffaloes for milk. The water
is drawn by boring and was very sweet
though mineral water is also available.
In the evening we took a village tour
and saw various mohallas like the mochi
mohallas, (the cobblers) the kashtgars
(the farmers), the kumhars (Potters) and
so on. We found that literacy level was
quiet high in the village with lots of
children able to speak English. We were
welcomed by many village folk and loved
to see a typical village house. Just
next to the village was a huge natural
lake where provisions had been made for
boating and fishing. The sunset from the
place was just great with nothing to
obstruct your view.